Morocco justly deserves
the ancient moniker, land behind the beyond [2], yet
it also must be recognized for its unusual confluence of past and present. Over
time its growth into a progressive nation has bolstered its historical import
and modern significance. It is a land anchored in the distant, murky past, and
yet flourishing with art and culture, economic prosperity, and inspiring
potential.
Morocco in antiquity was
a difficult environment in which to thrive, if you were one of those early
peoples who crossed the arid lands of Egypt, Libya and Algeria to reach it.
Others navigated the Red Sea or The Mediterranean from the Middle East, Greece
or Turkey, only to be confronted by the towering craggy, Atlas mountain range.
Some pushed on till they came to fertile plains, or reached the Atlantic
coastline. Not much is known about the original natives, as they left no trace
other than some Algerian cave drawings.
Its 30 million
inhabitants reflect lifestyles dictated by the geological strata. The
forbidding terrain of the mountains protected the early inhabitants from
encroachment, and they developed a society which was distinct and
self-sufficient. Due to its ocean locale, Morocco was a hub for trade from
ancient times. The pastoral, nomadic, desert people group who came to make up
99% of the population claim ancestors from ancient Egypt, and are said to be descendants
of the biblical Noah. This group is called the Berbers, a form of Barbar,
which meant barbarian – a name given them by traders. They call
themselves by an indigenous name which means “free men”. Today they still trade
across the deserts, dwelling in tents, and herding livestock. Some are
subsistence farmers where the terrain is agriculturally suitable. One third are
concentrated mostly in the north, in the Rif region, the plains of the Atlas
Mountains, and the Sous Valley. Split between Arab-Berber and Berber ethnicity
over time, two thirds live in cities and on coasts. Although they share the
language and are more alike than different, they consider themselves distinct. [3] They form a group that has become more politically
powerful with time, even as their dialects, skin and features can vary from
region to region.
The Arabs that arrived
in the 7th century brought Islam with them, and eventually
converted the aboriginal peoles. The country has remained Muslim throughout the
intervening millennia, strengthened and stabilized by the religions strict
doctrines and the dynasties which resulted. Morocco was the only territory
avoid Ottoman Turkish invasion, however, thanks to the perilous geography.
Throughout the 11th to
19th centuries powerful empires of the Almoravids, the
Almohads, and the Merinids/Wattasids reigned. [7] During this time,
Morocco became renowned for its centers of learning and arts. Although the
state religion is Islam, Jews and Christians are welcome to live in Morocco,
provided they avoid conversion of Muslims. It is one of few Arab countries
which not only constitutionally guarantee religious tolerance [8], but actively
promote advancement of women.
Although Islamic law is
the rule, women have unusual freedoms which are not commonly seen in Muslim
countries. They may own property and businesses, teach at university, run for
public office and practice activism. Morocco’s Islamic sect is benignly
tolerant, and progress for Moroccan woman began a century ago with Sultan/King
Mohamed V who once asked, “how can we have a successful society if half our
citizens are denied their full rights?” [9] Unlike
other Islamic countries who profess equality, Morocco practices what they
preach. In 2004, Asma Chaabi was the first ever female to serve as a Moroccan
mayor – of Essaouira [10], followed by Fatima Zahra
Mansouri, mayor of Marrakesh from 2009-2015.[11]
[13] Fatima Zahra Mansouri
Morocco sits as a jewel
at the top corner of the continent. It’s abundance of natural resources and
intelligent use of exportation have created a bustling economy. Hidden beneath
the sands and the valleys lay precious gems, such as diamonds, iron ore,
copper, tin, zinc and platinum, among others. Morocco is a top exporter of
salt, as the salt beds along the coastline hold rough, raw crystals useful in
cooking. But, the land is not the only source of her riches, as the oceans
provide up to 65 species of fish for export, especially mackerel and sardines. [14] The desert sands of the Western Sahara contain
vast phosphates deposits, some of the largest in the world. Therefore, this non-populated area has become a valuable region for the Moroccan economy, after
King Hassan annexed it and Mauritania in the mid-20th century. The
area has been in dispute since that time. [15]
Politically, Morocco is
a member of both the Arab League [16] and the
United Nations [17], and is a respected member of the
international community. This constitutional monarchy is lineal, but there is
an elected Parliament, as well as appointed officials. [18] Although
Morocco escaped European colonization which partitioned the remainder of the
continent in the 19th century, they eventually came under
French and Spanish dominance. The Sultan/Kings ruled, but at the behest of
European stewards. Finally, in the mid-20th century, the acting
king sought independence. Shortly thereafter, King Hassan annexed Mauritania
and the Western Sahara. [19] The stability of the governing
bodies throughout the centuries may be attributed to the strict adherence to
Islamic law, as well as the remoteness of the location. Although its
strategic location gave it international access – just across from the Iberian
Peninsula of Europe and on two oceans, the deserts and mountains prevented
exploitation from colonization of other African nations. Higher learning was a
priority, and remains so, in Morocco, and not just for men, but women, as well.
Remote from Middle Eastern Islamic influence over the centuries, Morocco’s
Muslim faith has remained more benign and tolerate of others, and women’s rights.
This has been undoubtedly been its greatest asset.
During the 6th century,
Jews migrated following the Babylonian’s destruction of their second temple.
Even today, they still reside in Morocco. Their numbers are few and elderly,
but they enjoy a peaceful existence. Christians, descended from the Roman
Catholics traders from centuries before left their mark on the arts. [20]
The arts are a major
part of Moroccan culture, and are appreciated throughout the world. Greco-Roman
influence can be seen in the famous Moroccan mosaics that are displayed
prolifically.
Craftsmen learn the
skill from their fathers, and spend a lifetime perfecting intricate pieces.
They can be seen in local, city fountains, to the most splendid, sacred
mosques. [22] These zellige patterns
were borrowed from the Moors of Spain and Portugal. [23] The tesserae, or
tiles,[24] reflect mathematically geometric
designs in keeping with Islam’s prohibition against depicting living things.
These abstract patterns tie in with Morocco’s state religion of Islam, by “encouraging
the contemplation of God” and include an array of colors and tiles, from large
shapes to tiny slivers. The wealthy display practical pieces for their homes as
a sign of success. Scientists and scholars study the mosaics and profess to
have only limited understanding within the past few decades of their
mathematical significance. [25] They adorn the
simplest pottery, and the largest city plazas and structures.
[26] They symbolize, for the world, the enigmatic kingdom that is
Morocco.
[27] Essaouira Village
Tourism is a boon to the
economy. Essaouira, a fishing village turned international destination, is a
newly-popular tourist venue.[28] The metropolitan
cities of the capital, Rabat, Fes, (or Fez), Tangier,
Casablanca and Marrakech, all draw students, tourists and artisans, thanks to
their markets, architecture, higher learning centers and combinations of
ancient and modern.[29] The markets of Morocco
teem with intricately-patterned rugs, geometric pottery, bright colored
scarves, and other handmade products which have become world famous.
Morocco is a delightful
mix of old and new, devout faith and artistic license. The Djemaa el Fna square
in Marrakech has provided sights such as street performers, snake charmers,
story-tellers and more since the 11th century. Scribes write
letters for the illiterate, while herbalists sell their holistic concoctions
and dispense advice. [32] Not far away students study
philosophy, religion and higher math, with women studying side by side with men.
Calls to prayer echo down alleyways and through courtyards, as youth on
scooters share the lanes with horse-drawn carriages and stalls of spices and
fresh fruit. The chatter of languages creates a cacophony of sounds – the lilt
of instruments, drumbeats, language and laughter. The centuries fall away, as
this only remaining venue of Moroccan antiquity clings to old ways, even as the
march of progress exacts its price. To truly enjoy this cultural feast for the senses,
it is best to find a spot out of the way and simply watch and listen in this
place where the past, present and the future all co-mingle in colorful
profusion.
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